The vintage 2015 in Bordeaux

The usual Ballyhoo of some winemakers and critics at the beginning of each campaign has been an inseparable part of our Bordeaux trip for some time now. Judging by the temperature during this year and the euphoric voices of winemakers and Chateaux owners that followed, we were expecting another top vintage, some were even prophesying another great "century vintage" like 2009 or 2010, or at least a vintage that's close enough to those in comparison. This naturally increased my curiosity to finally taste the vintage of 2015 and on this basis to be able to decide for myself.

First let's see the weather in 2015:

In general, it was drier from March to October - with the exception of August - than the long-term average. The cold at the beginning of the year led to a somewhat delayed budding. The temperature profile up to the flowering in early June with the subsequent slight rainfall was nearly perfect. The beginning of the summer, from late June to the end of July, was marked by an extreme drought and heat. However, because of the prolonged rain in August it wasn't the case of yet another very hot year like 2003. From the end of August to the 10th of September began again a spell of dry weather. This was exactly just before the harvest of the white grapes and the maturity of the red grapes. A storm with heavy rains in mid-September, just before the harvest of the Merlot grapes, made some winemakers sweat yet again. Especially in the Northern Medoc, like Saint Estephe, rainfalls were more pronounced than in the southern part or in St. Emilion, or Pomerol. The time between 18th September and 2nd October was yet again marked by dryness and moderate temperatures. During the most part of the harvest of the red wine grapes prevailed perfect weather conditions. Some wineries, which also delayed the harvest a little longer, had to yet again fight with the tricky situation of further rains between the 2nd and 5th of October.

Chateau Mouton Rothschild

Day 1: Arrival

Despite the almost 10 hours of traveling, it is always a great pleasure to experience the beginning of the spring with its yellow blossoms, the more one goes towards the southwest.

Once in Bordeaux, we began the first tasting of different Cru Bourgeois and Cru Classé from different appellations. Thus, it was a rough overview of the vintage 2015. I found the almost entirely unnoticeable freshness on the palate as quite pleasant and so, the rough direction of 2015 was somewhat specified.

Day 2: Tour de Medoc

Various tastings were to follow on the very next day. As usual we started in Medoc. Already at 9 am we had the first appointment with Leoville Las Cases, followed by the other two Leos in St. Julien. From St. Julien we worked our way step by step to the North, meaning to Pauillac and Saint Estephe. Both appeals were more affected than others by the heavy rain in mid-September and therefore not considered at the beginning of the campaign with the same euphoria as their southern neighbor or the right bank. Nevertheless, the result is Cabernet-typical, noble and complex wines. For me, at the top are Leoville Las Cases, Mouton Rothschild, Lynch Bages, Pichon Comtesse, Ducru Beaucaillou and Margaux. By the way it is the last vintage of the much too soon deceased Margaux' winemaker Mr. Paul Pontallier.

From a price-pleasure point of view, I was once again completely convinced by Grand Puy Lacoste. Also Calon Segur, the Leos, Beychevelle and Saint Pierre are way ahead with their 2015. I particularly liked the subtle cassis and toast aromas in the nose, the beautiful freshness, persistence and the moderate alcohol levels, often below 14 ° Vol.

Day 3: Southern Medoc and Pessac

After another impressive tasting of some of the major Chateaux from St. Julien in Gruaud Larose, we went straight towards the South, to Chateau du Tertre, where there was a tasting of the wines from the Margaux region. Characteristic for the Margaux' wines are the lightness, fine balance and freshness. The Margaux appellation is very homogeneous and smooth, although not quite as complex as St. Julien. For me, St. Julien in Medoc is in total just a little bit better.

Again and again, very special is the travel towards Chateau Haut Brion, which is now in the midst of constantly growing suburb Pessac like an iron bastion, asserting itself against the increasing settlement pressure of the region. In any case, the Haut Brion wines are just great, both white and red. Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion impress with their complexity, fine fruit and the sheer length of the finish. The day ended at Chateau Malartic Lagravière, where all the Chateaux of the city appellation Pessac Leognan are centrally gathered. There are also to be found the white wines from the region, which are equally in focus as the red wines. A great white wine, as always, Domaine de Chevalier. In no way inferior are the whites of de Fieuzal and Pape Clement. Amongst the red wines, in my opinion stood out Haut Bailly and Pape Clement. 

Day 4: St. Emilion and Pomerol

Once in Saint Emilion, we got to taste two absolute highlights- Chateau Ausone and Cheval Blanc. It was a great experience to be able to taste wines with such finesse and incredible depth. Here Ausone is somewhat better than Cheval Blanc. The other 1er Cru A candidates, Pavie and Angelus, are also very good, but can't come close to the former two. These are flavors that will cost their price. But Chateau Canon, Canon la Gaffeliere and Soutard are extremely good representatives of their region and they will be certainly cheaper. In addition to those great wines in St. Emilion, there was also some slight exaggeration towards high alcohol levels and extraction force. Some wines showed signs of preserved fruits, which I personally do not favour so much.

Our tasting marathon ended in Pomerol. Compared to St. Emilion, there are once again some really nice wines and for me, this is the more homogeneous appellation. I was impressed by the performance of Chateau Trottanoy, L'Eglise Clinet, Gazin and la Conseillante. These wines showed a great length, pleasant freshness, complexity and balance; everything was consistent. It was one very good end of this year's Primeur tasting.

Conclusion and comparison:

On the whole the vintage 2015 isn't an absolute top vintage in my opinion. However, indeed at the top. Wineries like Cheval Blanc, Ausone, Trotanoy, Margaux or Leoville Las Cases have conjured, now in the barrel and for sure later in the bottle, some really special wines. A great experience for the palate, indeed it was. The wines are full-bodied and more concentrated than those in 2014, but not so powerful and tannic as the 2010 vintage or so fleshy and fruity as in 2009. The vintage 2015 has its own character. Anyway, the question I want to ask is: Does it always have to be the vintage of the century? Must every vintage be always compared to 2009 and 2010, instead of being seen as an independent and authentic natural product, with all its advantages and disadvantages? 2015 will also find its own place in the Bordeaux hierarchy- perhaps not at the very top but so high up that it will produce wines that will provide everything for what Bordeaux stands for: elegance, power, complexity and the ability for a long aging.

On my constantly updated website I will introduce my offer for the vintage 2015 over the next weeks. If you can't find your personal favorites do not hesitate to contact me. I will do my very best to find and offer you your favorite Chateau at a very fair price. Enjoy browsing!!

Kind regards,
Axel Buess